Eat First

Sitting out Taste of Syracuse 2012

We have decided to “take a pass” on Taste of Syracuse this weekend.

While it is the official kick-off of the festival season in downtown Syracuse – and truly wonderful to see throngs of people lining the streets and sidewalks around Clinton and Hanover Squares – we have lost our taste for the Taste.

Why? Three reasons, really.

1. Chains like Arbys, Applebees, Bonefish and Pizza Hut do not belong at the Taste of Syracuse. What is local about these corporate entities, aside from the fact they have outlets in Central New York?

Unchain it!

2. Remember when reps of Finger Lakes and other New York wineries were on hand to pour tastes and answer questions about their products? No more. The wine segment of the Taste has been handed off to a marketing company offering international, California and a limited selection of New York State wines.

3. Taste of Syracuse has turned into a Taste of Advertising. A taste of Bath Fitter, GEICO, Supercuts, Dunkin’ Donuts  -- the list goes on.  The number of  “exhibitors,’’ many of them non-food, make the Taste feel like a taste of the State Fair Center of Progress Building, in June.

I will miss seeing my friend Joe Todisco, who owns and operates JJ’s stand (and JJ’s Miss Syracuse Diner, across from City Hall) and always makes me laugh. He makes an excellent pot roast sandwich. He also takes braciole from Ascioti’s in Solvay and swims it in red sauce until it’s so tender you can cut it with the tines of a plastic fork.

If you’re going to Taste of Syracuse Friday or Saturday, stop by and see Joe -- and/or any of the dozens of tasty, truly LOCAL vendors.

Benefit Sunday for Circa's Alicyn Hart: Sometimes, life hits you in the head

When Alicyn Hart started seeing what looked like "flashing lights,'' she knew something was wrong.

A friend who's also an opthalmologist told her to go to the emergency room. Doctors ordered tests, and tests revealed she had a brain tumor. She underwent surgery at Crouse Hospital in March, and surgeons removed a large, benign brain tumor.

"I feel good,'' says Alicyn, chef and owner of  Circa, a restaurant (and food market) in Cazenovia spotlighting seasonal menus that change weekly and emphasize locally sourced produce, meats, cheeses and other ingredients. "I hate to be anti-dramatic,'' she adds with a laugh. "It's been six weeks now. ... If you're gonna have a brain tumor, the tumor I had, I guess, is one of the better ones to have.''

Through it all, Alicyn has remained in high spirits and retained her signature sense of humor. The surgery itself and the medication she is taking have sapped some of her energy ("I get tired," she says) but she is on the rebound. She's back to work at Circa three days a week and hopes to return full-time soon.

Alicyn is grateful to Circa assistant chef Paul Cox and her staff, who rallied to keep Circa running  in her absence, and to the Cazenovia community for its concern and support.

 

To celebrate her recovery and to lessen the load of her medical bills, the community is holding a “Tumor-Free, But Still A Freaking Headcase!”  bash for Alicyn on Sunday at the Nelson Odeon, 4035 Nelson Road, Cazenovia. The public is invited to attend. Donations are encouraged, and will be collected at the door.

The event will be held from 1 to 5 p.m. and will feature food prepared by Circa’s  Paul Cox using products from Meadowood Farm, Cazenovia and other local growers. Brewery Ommegang, Empire Brewing Co., Cafe Kubal and others will provide beer, wine, soft drinks and coffee.

Taking the stage will be John Kelsey, Tumbleweed Gumbo, Anthony Greacen, and other artists.

For more information, call Neil Miller at 315-560-1580 or email nmiller23@twcny.rr.com.

In a New York (food map) State of mind

Where do we live?

North of Spiedies. South of Thousand Island Dressing and Croghan Bologna. East of  Beef on Weck, Chicken Wings, Garbage Plate and White Hots. West of  Peppermint Pig, Chicken Riggies, Tomato Pie and Utica Greens.

We live in the land of Salt Potatoes and Dinosaur BBQ. We are firmly planted in soda country, well east of the Empire State’s Soda vs. Pop line.

If you love food and love to discover local and regional favorites, none of this is breaking news. But New York’s diverse food terrain is officially noted on an appetizing and entertaining map, “New York State by Food Regions,’’ created by Shannon Glazer, a Geographic Information Services specialist with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation.

“Inspired by my visits to all corners of New York State, I recently decided to map different food regions in the state,’’ Glazer notes on the New York State Food Map Facebook page. The map has been “shared” more than 2,500 times. 

“After the first version of my map spread like wildfire, I decided to edit the map based on some of the comments I received. … 

“I'm starting this page to continue the conversation! Post your thoughts on local food here...Check out the "likes" on the page for more info about some of the restaurants and foods on the map!’’

My editor at Central New York: The Good Life Magazine turned me on to Glazer’s accomplishment. The May/June issue features a story on the treasure-filled foodie map, as well stories on Upstate travel destinations in all directions of Syracuse.

I can live without Michigans (a Plattsburgh specialty; hotdogs piled with onions and smothered in mustard and meat sauce) but I am bound and determined (translation: hellbent!) to get to Brooks Chicken BBQ country (Oneonta), possibly on the way to Mozzarella Sticks with Raspberry Sauce (Albany/Capital Region).

Thanks, Shannon. Happy food trails!

The CNY Regional Market in … Springtime

Why go to the Central New York Regional Market on a damp and dreary Saturday?

Because it’s spring in Syracuse and it has been rather warm. You’re hoping to find some fresh, robust, locally grown asparagus – instead of the thin, spindly stalks at the grocery store.

No such luck last Saturday, and no rhubarb, either. But soon. Very soon. Still, it was fun to ogle spring flowers and plants, pick up some dairy products and catch up with friends.

Yes, even in the in-between and off seasons, there are plenty of reasons to visit the Regional Market. 

There are vendors selling fresh fish and seafood, grass-raised meats, muesli and granola, jams and jellies, and, God help us, baked goods and homemade fudge. There are pasta and coffee pushers, at least one spice purveyor and a slot in Shed A devoted to kitchen gear and gizmos.

Artisan dinner rolls, 3 for $1, from Heidelberg Baking Co., Herkimer

There are ever more local and regional bread bakers and cheese makers. All look to be delicious, and all would be delighted to send us home with a loaf of crusty bread and wedge of cheese for noshing.

Visiting the market regularly is a great way to have a conversation – and a personal relationship – with the people who grow and produce our food.

When I stopped by the Wake Robin Farm stand in Shed A on Saturday, I learned that Meg and Bruce Schader’s son, Hugh, is now 12 – and noticeably taller since last fall. He helps out on the farm and at the market, lending a hand with tasks like grating the Mona Lisa, the Schaders’ signature Italian-style cheese, Meg said.

That’s not the type of tidbit you’re going to pick up at (enter supermarket name here). And that’s what makes going to the Regional Market special, no matter the season.

The Central New York Regional Market is at 2100 Park St., Syracuse. The market is open 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays year round. The Thursday market (10 a.m. to 6 p.m.) resumes in May and continues through the Thursday before Thanksgiving. There is also a flea market on Sundays (7 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Information: 315-422-8647 

Birthday doldrums? Pamper them away at Mirbeau

Your birthday at 20 and 30: You hit so many clubs, mingle with so many people and have so much fun, it’s all a blur. You don’t remember anything.

Your birthday at 50:  You’re greeted with black balloons, “Over the Hill” cards, a bottle of Centrum Silver and a subscription to AARP Magazine. They say your memory is in decline, but you remember EVERYTHING…

Especially the daytrip to Mirbeau Inn & Spa with your sisters and/or sister-friends!

Yes, friends, birthdays call for something special, and MILESTONE birthdays call for something REALLY special. Some people want to paint the town and others prefer a more relaxing, low-key celebration – which we happily arranged for my sister last month on the occasion of a mile-marker birthday.

A visit to to Mirbeau is special, indeed – for the person having the birthday AND for those treating him or her to a day of pampering.

The special treatment can be something as simple as a manicure or pedicure, but we recommend something a little more indulgent, like a 50-minute Swedish massage. Surrender. You’re in the best of hands, pun intended. Nearly every inch of you – from your scalp to your slumped back and shoulders to your over-used typing-texting hands and tired, neglected feet – will say thank you.

For the ultimate in luxury, pad upstairs in your slippers and bathrobe and sit down to an elegant three-course spa lunch. The menu changes regularly, but usually includes a choice of soup or salad, entree (chicken, beef, seafood) and dessert, like crème brulee, Hummingbird cake and the PB&J: chocolate-peanut butter bombe with Concord grape puree and homemade marshmallows.

On a recent Friday, the soup of the day was a puree of romaine lettuce, to which nothing more than broth, salt, pepper and a touch of cream had been added. That might sound a little strange, but if you can make smoothies with romaine lettuce, why not hot soup?

Mirbeau’s Orange Flower Essence Crème Brulee: In a word, divine.

Add a glass or bottle of wine to lunch and you might be tempted to return to the Relaxation Room and stretch out in a chaise. And that’s OK. Visit Mirbeau on a “day pass’’ and you’re encouraged to make full use of the facilities – gym, saunas, outdoor hot tub – and explore the grounds, which, before long will be in full flower. 

Go ahead, enjoy being the Birthday Queen or Birthday King for a day. Breathe, relax and say “Ahhhhh!’’

Mirbeau Inn & Spa is at 851 W. Genesee Street Road (Route 20), about a mile outside the village of Skaneateles. A 50-minute spa treatment and three-course lunch costs roughly $200, depending on treatment and meal options. For more information, call 315-685-5006.

It’s showtime at Syracuse University’s Lyman Cafe!

It’s spring. Birds are singing, trees are budding and students in Chef-Instructor Mary Kiernan’s Restaurant Operations class at Syracuse University are placing food orders and planning daily menus, getting a taste of work in a restaurant kitchen, waiting on tables and managing the “front of the house.’’

Welcome to the 2012 edition of luncheon service at Lyman Cafe, on the second floor of Lyman Hall. It’s a rite of spring for students in the Restaurant Operations class, which is required for degrees in Hospitality Management and Nutrition Science and Dietetics at SU’s David B. Falk College of Sport and Human Dynamics.

Themes and menus for the luncheons feature dishes and recipes selected and worked out by the students themselves. Each menu includes a choice of specialty beverage, starter, entree, dessert and coffee or tea. Substitutions are not available and special dietary needs cannot be met.

You get what you get – and what you get is a restaurant-quality lunch more lavish than your usual work-a-day fare, prepared and served by an enthusiastic team.

My sister and I attended lunch at Lyman Cafe last week at the invitation of Chef Kiernan, who I profiled for the March-April edition of  Central New York Magazine: The Good Life.

It was an invitation I couldn’t refuse. Take a look at some of the food we enjoyed and you’ll see why:

Grapefruit Basil Sipper: No alcohol. Refreshing and delicious!

Artichoke Banana Pepper Soup: A puree memorable for its unusual combination of vegetables and flavors (zippy!), served with steamed, stuffed baby artichokes.

Shaved Steak and Gorgonzola Sandwich on Sour Dough Bread, crispy sweet potato strings on the side.

Panna Cotta with raspberry reduction and house-made chocolate biscotti

Days later, our minds wander back to this luncheon, and the care with which the students prepared and served it.

Hats off to Chef Kiernan and her charges!

Lunch is served at Lyman Cafe at 11:30 a.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays through the remainder of April. The cost is $14 per person, payable at sign-in prior to seating. Reservations are a MUST and the reservations book fills up quickly. To check on reservation availability, call 315-443-1710 or email her at  jmande04@syr.edu

CSAs in CNY: Learn about local farms, farmers and farm fresh produce

Grindstone Farm's CSA display at the Pride of New York Harvest Festival, 2010

What does CSA stand for? Coffee Supply Agents? Nope. Guess again. Cake-Bakers Specialty Association? Not even close. 

CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. But what does that mean, exactly? If you don’t know, don’t worry. The eat-local and buy-local movement is growing in our region, according to the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York, but most people are still not familiar with CSAs.

CSA means making an up-front, out-of-pocket investment in local farms and farmers for the growing season – and bringing home the benefits in the form of a weekly box “share” of fresh, local produce, usually from late spring to fall.

To give a shoutout to CSA farmers, encourage investment and promote tasty, homegrown food, NOFA-NY is holding a series of CSA Fairs across the state during March and April.

A Syracuse CSA Fair will be held 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday (March 10) at Erwin Methodist Church, 920 Euclid Ave., Syracuse. Representatives from a dozen or more farms will be there, explaining their programs, growing schedules, pricing, pick-up and delivery options and more.

Investing in and supporting a CSA farm is something we have talked about at our house, but ultimately decided against.

The pros: We love vegetables. And we like to try new things. So we’re certain we would eat all those vegetables and freeze and/or can what we couldn’t get to. Many CSA farmers provide helpful tips and recipes, either with their shares or on their websites – or both.

The cons: Would we get tired of squash and salad greens? We love to go the farmers markets and roadside stands that dot Central New York and the Finger Lakes. Would our friends at the Regional Market in Syracuse wonder what has become of us?

As with any investment, it’s a personal decision. That’s why the CSA Fairs are a great idea. Educate yourself and ask questions. Some CSA farms offer installment payments and half-shares for smaller households. There is bound to be a CSA program to fit your needs and budget and allay any concerns.

I asked my friend Barbara, who got her introduction to CSA life last year, to share her experiences. This is what she had to say:

“We loved our CSA but we aren't doing it again this year. Our schedules are so crazy now that we're often not here at the same time for dinner. … I don't think there's anything negative at all about the experience. It's pricey ($600 this season), but if you love and use all or most of the food, it's worth it. 

“I love pretty much every vegetable, so I never felt overburdened. If I was getting tired of summer squash, I just didn't pick it up that week, but it was pretty rare that I got tired of anything. 

“I know that we had a healthier diet -- I was so determined to not waste that beautiful food that we ate a lot more vegetables than we would have otherwise. And there definitely are things we now eat that we wouldn't have if not for the CSA -- garlic scapes and tomatillos come to mind. 

“I also just liked the experience of driving to the farm every week -- it wasn't an errand at all but something I always looked forward to. (Isn't it funny how I hate, hate, hate going to the grocery store, but I never mind going to the farmer's market or the farm?) 

“Anyway -- it was definitely a great experience, and I'm going to have to kick my gardening up a notch this year.’’

For more information on local CSAs, visit the Community Supported Agriculture of Central New York website. And check out the Farmshed CNY 2012 CSA Directory.

The real deal: Syracuse Real Food Co-Op

It’s not Wegmans or Price Chopper or Tops or Aldi. 

It’s small – not the size of a football field – with creaky wooden floors and narrow aisles. If you’re browsing one of those aisles with your cart and someone’s stocking the shelves and another shopper pushing a cart comes along – well, three is a crowd. 

What this store may lack in floor space it makes up for in content, personality and personable service. 

Welcome to the Syracuse Real Food Co-Op. 

The co-op, located in a residential area two blocks off Westcott Street, in the outer Syracuse University neighborhood, is a largely organic and locally focused grocery store owned by its members. It’s committed to community and community buying power. “Owners” make a one-time investment of $100, and the public is invited to shop there, as well. 

I hadn’t been to the Co-Op in more than a year, but a recent LivingSocial deal (pay $10 for $20 worth of groceries/merchandise) provided the motivation I needed to get over there. 

I happily wandered the aisles and went away impressed by the produce department (which included some local items, like Oswego County onions, even in the dead of winter), the selection of local breads (great selection featuring Heidelberg Bakery, Pasta’s Daily Bread and Patisserie, among others) and local/regional cheeses (Macadam, Cooperstown Cheese Co., Cabot, etc.) 

The prepared foods area includes soups, sandwiches and some packaged entrees, and it would be easy to go to town in the bulk foods department, which stretches across the back section of the store and contains everything from grains and nuts to Mu Mu Muesli (an all-natural cereal made in Sharon Springs, Schoharie County). 

Breathe in the intoxicating aroma of a shelf fully loaded with bags of local coffee (from Recess, Cafe Kubal and others). Ahhhhhh! 

The Syracuse Real Food Co-Op made the news in 2010 when its hoped-for move to bigger digs on East Genesee Street was turned down by the Syracuse Board of Zoning Appeals. 

We wish the Co-Op continued success on Kensington Road – its home since 1973 – until such time a move/expansion is possible. I’m determined to get there more often and encourage you to put it on your local food radar. It’s is a refreshingly real and honest shopping experience. 

Don’t forget your re-usable shopping bag! 

The Syracuse Real Food Co-Op is at 618 Kensington Road, off Westcott Street, in Syracuse. Hours are 8 a.m. 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. Info: 315-472-1385.

 

A tale of two CNY spicy tomato oils

Central New Yorkers are truly food-blessed. We live in the land of the salt potato, claim bragging rights to the original Dinosaur Bar-B-Q and have not one but two locally made tomato garlic oils for dunking our bread and tossing with pasta. 

First came Pasta’s Spicy Hot Tomato Oil. It’s a classic. If you’ve dined at Pastabilities in Armory Square, you might have dipped some Pasta’s stretch bread (habit forming) in a bowl of glistening red oil before dinner – and liked it so much you ordered it as an entree, too.

Yes, it’s that good. 

Newer to the scene is Cheeky Monkey Tomato Garlic Dipping Oil. You might have seen it at the Regional Market in Syracuse, where samples are offered with slices of stretch bread from Patisserie, a bakery in Skaneateles. It originated at Syra-Juice, a small takeout restaurant in Marshall Square Mall near Syracuse University, and is sold there. 

Taste is subjective, so we wouldn’t presume to pick a  “best of the CNY tomato garlic oils.” We’ll just tell you a bit more about each of these fine products made in our own backyard.

Pasta’s Spicy Hot Tomato Oil: The name pretty much says it all. It’s spicy, but not ripping hot, with a slight sweetness in the background. It’s not thin and it’s not thick; it’s somewhere in between, just right for coating your pasta of choice.

Pastabilities owner Karyn Korteling and her late husband, Pat, sampled and fell in love with a spicy tomato oil on a trip to Italy and were inspired to create their own version at Pastabilities. It contains oil, San Marzano tomatoes and garlic – lots of garlic, slivers of it floating in the oil.  We can't go to Armory Square without picking up a container of it. 

Cheeky Monkey Tomato Garlic Dipping Oil: This one comes in two varieties – regular and extra spicy. We’ve sampled the extra spicy oil on several occasions now and find it to be super-duper garlicky with a noticeable sweetness. It’s sold in soft-sided containers with a pour spout, which allows it to be shaken – clever packaging, as the oil and tomatoes tend to separate. 

The spicy tomato oils are versatile. We use them as a dipper, a pasta sauce and pizza base. They’re also dynamite in paninis – spread bread generously with spicy oil before piling on your other ingredients. The oils can also be stirred into soups and salad dressings to add a bit of zip, and drizzled on eggs and omelets. 

Pasta’s Spicy Hot Tomato Oil can be purchased at Pasta’s Daily Bread, 308 S. Franklin St., Syracuse. A small container (7 ounces) costs $3.50. Cheeky Monkey Tomato Garlic Dipping Oil is available at Syra-Juice, Green Hills Farms, Syracuse Real Food Co-Op and other locations in Central New York. A container costs $7.60.

Take one – or both -- home soon and put them to creative, delicious use.

 

Soup’s on, Central New York!

Stir up the Campbell’s? Nope.

Chicken Soup for the Soul? Sure, that’s fine. But truth is, in winter, any kind of soup is good for the soul – especially if it’s homemade.

So far this winter, we’ve stirred up pots of Black Bean Soup With Cumin, My Favorite Lentil Soup and Curried Cream-less Broccoli soup, all from “Jane Brody’s Good Food Book’’; Kale and Potato Soup from Alice Waters’ “The Art of Simple Food’’; Beef Minestrone Soup from Wegmans Menu magazine; Vegetarian Minestrone Soup from “St. Basil’s Celebration of California’s Cuisines’’; and Pasta e Fagiole a la Mary Anne Esposito, to name a few.

Mary Kiernan, a chef and instructor at Syracuse University, shared with me her recipe for Chorba Ras el Hanout, a hearty vegetable soup made with the Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout, for a feature that will appear in the March-April issue of Central New York (The Good Life) Magazine. March will still be soup season. I can’t wait to try it.

Why soup? It’s warming, satisfying and comforting, and fills the kitchen with savory aromas. It can take a lot of chop-chop, but once you get into the rhythm of it, it’s no chore.

Soup is inexpensive to make, often uses what you already have on hand and provides multiple servings. Leftovers make a great lunch – or lunches.

Way better than Campbell’s or Progresso. Mmmm Mmmm good! And good for you.

Curried Cream-less Broccoli Soup

Adapted from “Jane Brody’s Good Food Book’’

You will need:

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil (or a combination)

1 large onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

2 cloves garlic, chopped (about 2 teaspoons)

1 teaspoon curry powder

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 2/3 cups vegetable broth

1 cup water

1 bunch broccoli, including the stems, cut into flowerets and ½- inch slices (about 1 pound) 

1 large potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

1 cup milk

Preparation:

In a large saucepan, heat oil/melt butter. Saute onion for about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook briefly. Add the curry and pepper and stir. Add the broth and water to the pan, bringing the soup to a boil. Add the broccoli and potato.  When the mixture returns to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer until all the vegetable are tender (about 20 minutes).

Puree the soup using with a stick blender (or in a food processor or blender. Return puree to pan, stir in milk, and cook over low heat until hot.  Do not boil soup once milk has been added.

Makes 6 servings. The recipe doubles easily. You might want to make it ahead, to allow the flavors to meld.

 

Say hello to Consuela’s West Side Taqueria and BBQ

Most of the time, we choose restaurants based on the food.

Sometimes, though, we choose to visit a place out of curiosity – and because we want to support it and see it succeed. And because of the food.

Such is the case with Consuela’s. In November, funeral director and neighborhood booster Jan Maloff opened a taqueria and barbecue restaurant on the Near West Side of Syracuse. It is his hope, he has said, that it become a gathering place for residents and families in a traditionally underserved part of Syracuse, many of who don’t have cars.

I visited Consuela’s for lunch recently and hope you’ll check it out, too.

THE VIBE: Casual, comfortable and colorful. The dining room has about 8 tables, mostly for parties of four or six. The walls are bright green, the tables and chairs bright red and purple. Eclectic artisan accents add to the vibrancy.

THE MENU: Mexican, Cuban and Puerto Rican items, like tacos, burritos, empanadas and quesadillas, plus barbecue, with most items priced $6 to $8. Fried haddock is available Fridays only.

CHOWING DOWN: On seeing the house-made taco bowls that hold hearty main-dish salads, I knew what I would be having. Items are prepared taqueria style at the counter and options are abundant. Besides shredded barbecue chicken, my salad bowl contained rice and black beans, lettuce, tomatoes, diced pepper and onions, sliced jalapenos and olives, plus salsa, sour cream and guacamole -- and a sprinkle of fresh cilantro.

Can you say filling? I made a good dent in the bowl, but couldn’t finish it.

WHAT’S A VEGETARIAN GOING TO FIND? Items like the tacos, burritos and salad bowls are available vegetarian, with beans (black or pinto) and rice, plus your choice of veggies and condiments.

LIQUID ASSETS: Consuela’s does not have a liquor license; you can bring your own wine and beer. For now, the drink selections are limited to bottled water, Goya fruit juices and sodas and coffee. 

THE DAMAGES: $10 plus change for the salad and a bottle of water, plus $1 for the tip jar.

THE NEXT TIME: I’m bringing a dining mate, for sure, so we can sample several things off the menu, like fish tacos and empanadas. Or empanadas and a quesadilla. Definitely empanadas!

CLOSING THOUGHTS: I was impressed by the thoughtfulness of the staff, who not only made my chicken taco bowl salad precisely to order, but checked in several times to make sure I was pleased with my food. I was!

THE DETAILS: Consuela’s is at 523 Marcellus St., Syracuse, two blocks off West Fayette Street. Information: 474-8226. WiFi is available.